Corduroy, Explained
Corduroy is a woven pile fabric whose pile is cut into distinct vertical cords — wales — running the length of the cloth. It is velvet's rugged country cousin: same cut-pile softness, organized into ridges that wear hard, hide wear, and give corduroy its unmistakable vintage-academic character.
Wales: the number that defines it
Wale count is cords per inch, and it inverts: HIGHER numbers mean FINER cords. Needlecord / pincord (16–21 wale) is fine and dressy — shirts and dresses; standard (11–14) is the trouser classic; wide-wale (6–10) is bold, plush and jacket-hearted. Most corduroy is cotton, often with a little spandex in modern stretch versions.
What corduroy feels like
Soft on the ridges, sturdy underneath, with more warmth than flat cotton of the same weight — the pile traps air. Like all pile cloth it has a nap direction: run your hand along the wales and one way is smooth, the other resistant, and the color reads deeper against the nap.
What to sew with corduroy
- Pants and overalls — the heritage use
- Jackets, shackets and caps
- Skirts and pinafores
- Kids' wear (needlecord) and cushions (wide-wale)
Cutting and pressing rules
Cut every piece the SAME direction — nap up for richer color is the convention — exactly as with velvet. Topstitch with the wales, not across, where possible. Press from the back on a towel so the cords sink instead of crushing; never slam an iron on the face. A walking foot keeps wales aligned across seams, which is the detail that separates home-made from handmade.
Corduroy, measured
Fibers in our corduroy
- Polyester57%
- Cotton51%
- Spandex41%
Share of listings containing each fiber — most cloths blend two or more.
Live from 83 measured listings on our shelf. How we measure →
Common questions
What does wale mean in corduroy?
Cords per inch. 21-wale needlecord is nearly flat and dress-weight; 8-wale is chunky jacket cloth. The listing's wale (or a look at the photo scale) tells you which character you are buying.
Which way should corduroy nap run?
One consistent direction across all pieces — nap running up gives the deepest color. Mixing directions makes panels photograph as different shades.
Does corduroy shrink?
It is cotton: expect a few percent on a hot first wash, and pre-wash before cutting. Wash finished garments inside-out and cool to keep the pile fresh, and tumble low or hang.
